Programme pour le thème C9 mercredi matin salle M

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9H30 : n° 1396 The rogue waves in the ocean - review

Efim Pelinovsky Christian Kharif Alexey Slunyaev
Institute of Applied Physics
Our talk focuses on extreme wave events called rogue waves. They are among the waves naturally observed by people on the sea surface that represent inseparable feature of the Ocean. Rogue waves appear suddenly from nowhere, cause danger and disappear at once. They may occur at the surface of a relatively calm sea, reach not very high amplitudes, but be fatal for ships and crew due do their unexpectedness and abnormal features. The collection of observed rogue waves is presented. The physical mechanisms of the rogue wave formation are reviewed.

10H10 : n° 1395 Strong amplification of water waves on non-reflected beaches

Ira Didenkulova Efim Pelinovsky
Institute of Applied Physics
Water wave amplification on beaches of a small slope is significant because there is no reflection. Here we demonstrate the same character of significant wave amplification even the depth is an arbitrary (not smoothed) function of offshore coordinate. Two examples of special bottom profiles when wave equation has a rigorous solution in the form of a traveling wave are found. The reflection and transmission of the wave approaching the non-reflecting beach are studied.